Success for Summit Oxygen On Mount Everest
The British Army’s decision to use Summit Oxygen
on their expedition to Mount Everests notorious West Ridge proved
to be a good one. The logistical
advantage this gave them over using a traditional constant flow system was considerable. Climbers
in the high camps were afforded the luxury of sleeping on oxygen. This
has a two fold advantage firstly, tired muscles recover more quickly allowing
for improved performance the following day. Secondly, it also provides an uninterrupted
nights sleep without intermittent breathing patterns.
“We slept well, probably the best sleep yet; Summit Oxygen had done its job well, nasal canulas instead of a face mask had made sleeping comfortable”.
Although the expedition didn’t summit, due to the avalanche conditions they encountered in the Hornbein Couloir, the Summit Oxygen system performed perfectly for them. For their summit bid the climbers left the top camp, Camp 5, confident in the knowledge that their oxygen supply would last them to the summit and back without fear of running out or having to rely on pre-positioned cylinders further up the route.
“It was brilliant, I only used it
from camps 4 to 5 and above but seriously it was like turning
night to day”
On the north side of the mountain the American climber William
Tyler used our equipment, his report is below.
“My name is William Tyler and I attempted Everest in 2006 from the North side. I used the Summit Oxygen system and can tell you without a doubt that this system is the future for high altitude mountaineering. As a SCUBA diving Dive Master, I am familiar with the concept of an on demand breathing system. When I began my research for which O2 system to use, this one stood out from the available options, as it makes the most sense. Why waste 2/3'ds of oxygen you have (which is limited and oh so precious) to the atmosphere? I also believe the delivery method (nasal canula) is a better way to do things than a face mask. Remember, gas will take the path of least resistance and a face mask that doesn't fit properly will lose oxygen out the seal.
When I arrived in Khatmandu, I was surprised, but pleased, at the attention paid to me by Summit Oxygen staff. They were extremely helpful and knowledgeable about the system and provided me with a solid training session. This all took place whilst the city was under curfew. Since there were no taxis, Mr. Kul walked several hours, at great personal risk, to my hotel to ensure I knew how to operate the sytem and that all was ok.
Neil has been great in helping me and has gone to extraordinary lengths to ensure my oxygen system was the best it could be and I am grateful for that. If anyone has any questions please do not hesitate to contact me via Summit Oxygen”



